tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1595040827442877052024-03-13T17:28:50.358-04:00Isabella's Project DiaryIsabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.comBlogger479125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-73199799509198944002023-08-10T20:00:00.000-04:002023-08-10T20:00:04.309-04:00New sheer handsewn linen camica<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7i-3K24nSAYXkXA96C3HWLNOMbmpHmDy-0OxEKDJQ_HNrhMU2LdOWa__nYCZjcwznyHrwsi05Z8Q9Yk2evifX169Fr7Uj1qUFc8UPiImCJvx8RNwzZ0SRuRkZft3Z422L3YVY5waKVDozQd4SmiYgvFPagABZp-o4_VhcujetDlntXUC2H4Y9im9zCZg_/s4032/20230810_185845.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7i-3K24nSAYXkXA96C3HWLNOMbmpHmDy-0OxEKDJQ_HNrhMU2LdOWa__nYCZjcwznyHrwsi05Z8Q9Yk2evifX169Fr7Uj1qUFc8UPiImCJvx8RNwzZ0SRuRkZft3Z422L3YVY5waKVDozQd4SmiYgvFPagABZp-o4_VhcujetDlntXUC2H4Y9im9zCZg_/s320/20230810_185845.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The camica laid out on my bed at Pennsic. It's too sheer to model as it's out of 2.5oz linen I bought from Fabric Store. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJbpgRDZ1FELCEkqAnTV1sYWyFsWAgNZa3a8-nq_vVqVKXkWY3VL2NvFBPESYsSwGcA9_5R9xtyEPClqnlCiHj1BJVBtEd9_DcSuFKxnDUkUNAyN9BGY_56n_3G-8qouhhwVIk4ThsBC3G2fk9Vowy_gWqCIr4i1hl2vpOxGeKWVsg8z8mvQ4dgU2gm-eN/s4032/20230810_185902.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJbpgRDZ1FELCEkqAnTV1sYWyFsWAgNZa3a8-nq_vVqVKXkWY3VL2NvFBPESYsSwGcA9_5R9xtyEPClqnlCiHj1BJVBtEd9_DcSuFKxnDUkUNAyN9BGY_56n_3G-8qouhhwVIk4ThsBC3G2fk9Vowy_gWqCIr4i1hl2vpOxGeKWVsg8z8mvQ4dgU2gm-eN/s320/20230810_185902.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Close up of the neckline. I used linen thread I would run through beeswax to sew the entire camica. Each of the edges are rolled or are wrapped in what is essentially linen bias tape. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOnepInCBGAN4-ueHT3rs_glDtFrhRLGp61Bhno0Cx-M7ZZsXNhjO1trUhGj4abjZ8EB2Esi-Tq78eVFKnluQsgooLf9c-jB0ObrXJz1xCpWwVkct9UDVaIZXDYkW0hjM2nnYtb_2lRJoj2Iaji3mfVD0rvqlMit85jw67vd0FIiESLgePvCjSyTOOxCts/s4032/20230810_185853.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOnepInCBGAN4-ueHT3rs_glDtFrhRLGp61Bhno0Cx-M7ZZsXNhjO1trUhGj4abjZ8EB2Esi-Tq78eVFKnluQsgooLf9c-jB0ObrXJz1xCpWwVkct9UDVaIZXDYkW0hjM2nnYtb_2lRJoj2Iaji3mfVD0rvqlMit85jw67vd0FIiESLgePvCjSyTOOxCts/s320/20230810_185853.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Close up of one of the cuffs. I still need to add twill tape or some sort of fastener to the cuffs. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Overall, it took me maybe three days, on and off, to sew the camica up while at Pennsic? This included cutting out the garment and going to classes or walking around. It really didn't take too terribly long.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The pattern is very simple. One yard of linen for the front. One yard of linen for the back. 30" of the linen, cut in half for the sleeves (so the "top" of the yard is one sleeve and the "bottom" is the other). 5"ish to make squares. I cut the bottom of the front and back to make binding for the neckline and cuffs. Overall: 3 yards of fabric used. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">It's very lightweight and perfect for summer. I'll probably wear it to the North Carolina Renaissance Festival in a few weeks. :-) </div><br /><p></p>Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-3520626282694012362023-05-06T19:07:00.004-04:002023-05-06T19:07:42.614-04:00Late 16th Century Venetian Style Peasant Dress<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLuD2yGH2lZHibfb1EVrI5vLH_CORgRgkcj23bFHWg1LYYMhVn4iz0b5QBUMybXex47Z1kPk-3v-FcnUnJ-40XvAz4m_nEE6Q7_3GDP6J5WfLwFsn3UyNEufB2tADqTuv107scTxocOyxmbEIV_Fnh4F5D6BSf7aN_GkK-pEgDVG4LpjwwI1OvTIhx9g/s3105/dressmaycrown2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3105" data-original-width="2185" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLuD2yGH2lZHibfb1EVrI5vLH_CORgRgkcj23bFHWg1LYYMhVn4iz0b5QBUMybXex47Z1kPk-3v-FcnUnJ-40XvAz4m_nEE6Q7_3GDP6J5WfLwFsn3UyNEufB2tADqTuv107scTxocOyxmbEIV_Fnh4F5D6BSf7aN_GkK-pEgDVG4LpjwwI1OvTIhx9g/s320/dressmaycrown2.jpg" width="225" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp786VA99L3NzFd_E6p0NREtY_F2RpYlKJh7jQwpM0ckzO50f3aid3WAv60uRXQ0tdAOqOfFhLySdf8ccPZfN4TnSfDtuXuS0MiF18leKVTSgo34vlV1B7lGJZc52oLQ4QpTQZeztPFTGBnnSXVHi9XSNzyYOwLC4hUetiB9_a46bQ1vt23Fmz7x_2VA/s2993/dressmarycrown1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2993" data-original-width="1881" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp786VA99L3NzFd_E6p0NREtY_F2RpYlKJh7jQwpM0ckzO50f3aid3WAv60uRXQ0tdAOqOfFhLySdf8ccPZfN4TnSfDtuXuS0MiF18leKVTSgo34vlV1B7lGJZc52oLQ4QpTQZeztPFTGBnnSXVHi9XSNzyYOwLC4hUetiB9_a46bQ1vt23Fmz7x_2VA/s320/dressmarycrown1.jpg" width="201" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-style: inherit; font-weight: 600; margin: 0px;">Materials</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px; padding: 0px;">3 1/2 yards of red linen/cotton blend from <a href="http://rwrd.io/3wdxm91?c">Fabric Mart</a></p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px; padding: 0px;">1/2 yard of cotton duck cloth</p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px; padding: 0px;">1/2 yard of white cotton</p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px; padding: 0px;">1/2 yard of linen rayon blend stripes from <a href="http://rwrd.io/3wdxm91?c">Fabric Mart</a></p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px; padding: 0px;">DMC thread because no one carries red linen and I thought the event originally was a weekend ago</p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px; padding: 0px;">White linen thread from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/ThimbleAndPlume?ref=purchases_peek_overlay">Thimble and Plume</a></p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px; padding: 0px;">A boot lace</p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px; padding: 0px;">3 ish yards of trim I bought from <a href="https://www.ebay.com/str/laceandtrims">Lace & Trims</a> on ebay</p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px; padding: 0px;"></p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-style: inherit; font-weight: 600; margin: 0px;">Pattern</span></p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px; padding: 0px;">I used<a href="https://somethingdelightful.com/mccalls/m7763"> McCalls M7763</a> for the bodice but with edits. I upped the neckline by at least a good inch. I took two inches off the front shoulder strap and redesigned them to be more narrow at the top. I took some off the upper inside of the front side seam as well.</p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px; padding: 0px;">The skirt is just pleated yardage that I then attached to the bodice. The apron is well, a rectangle with a long, thin strap of material to make the ties.</p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px; padding: 0px;"></p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-style: inherit; font-weight: 600; margin: 0px;">First Wearing</span></p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px 0px; padding: 0px;">I didn't get the chemise I wanted to wear with the outfit done in time. I ended up just wearing a blouse I found at Goodwill that looked close enough. </p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px 0px; padding: 0px;">The bodice probably could have been laced a bit tighter but, overall, it was pretty comfy to wear. I love the length of it and will probably make a couple more dresses from the pattern.</p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px 0px; padding: 0px;">It was also the correct outfit to wear as it was pretty warm in the sun at the event. Unfortunately, I had to leave early because the pup wasn't used to the heat. She's fine - she cooled down quickly on the car ride home- but I just didn't want her to get sick. </p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px 0px; padding: 0px;"><b>Research</b></p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px 0px; padding: 0px;"><b><br /></b></p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px 0px; padding: 0px;">It was pretty much based on the s<a href="https://isabelladangelo.blogspot.com/2019/09/hsm2019sepkatinas-pretty-new-green-16th.html">ame images as I used for my friend's dress</a> a couple of years ago. This one in particular:</p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4JMSvn9TgWs0qHVTD0Brcdii2SuAsqRhuEjNMadSOgjNYJk3qp6TPSMoGn9IHclP_38C8y6xy58J4Q0aye-ealW6VVa7LlLwWlL2_DiuCja1Rt0dzt5AWoGufCOLQRYGsSCHLpe-neuiFBZlzC5VHtiy_7L7JA3zVhM-1u_-FzqqoT_q7t33jU-d2Jg/s576/7414923266_b2e64daca1_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="576" data-original-width="468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4JMSvn9TgWs0qHVTD0Brcdii2SuAsqRhuEjNMadSOgjNYJk3qp6TPSMoGn9IHclP_38C8y6xy58J4Q0aye-ealW6VVa7LlLwWlL2_DiuCja1Rt0dzt5AWoGufCOLQRYGsSCHLpe-neuiFBZlzC5VHtiy_7L7JA3zVhM-1u_-FzqqoT_q7t33jU-d2Jg/s320/7414923266_b2e64daca1_o.jpg" width="260" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pietro Ronzelli: Nativita di Maria, Chiesa del Carmine, Bergamo</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px 0px; padding: 0px;">I just did the inverse colors - primarily because I didn't have a bright red Venetian dress. Now that I do, I think I'll work on making more chemises to wear with my dresses and gowns. I'll need them come Pennsic! Who else is going?</p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px 0px; padding: 0px;"><b><br /></b></p><p style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.42857em; margin: 0.357143em 0px 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></p></div><p><br /></p>Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-85140367886798047422023-04-09T07:30:00.002-04:002023-04-09T07:30:20.337-04:00Happy Easter! Naturally Dyed Easter Eggs!<p> I've been slowly getting into natural dyeing for years now. This year, I wanted to naturally dye the Easter eggs. After looking at a few different options, I went with Turmeric for yellow and purple cabbage for blue. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizCbPAtSFoGnKm1Vv13gytsZrka6Sn4n2vp-r72SXY3HH7nfq9NHRu-gKeq8eFheQOY_NBJ9uN1CYCbhvbwldI6UZwZQmVIwrpdLJGHUzfyhuEjTjBzE2BoOT06nT9vwMsTHoClCfzIzN3_GcT0rBvj6MqlLaPQx6-c0UQZauhfpMYMPRhu1QtbMnL_w/s1783/20230409_064521.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1338" data-original-width="1783" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizCbPAtSFoGnKm1Vv13gytsZrka6Sn4n2vp-r72SXY3HH7nfq9NHRu-gKeq8eFheQOY_NBJ9uN1CYCbhvbwldI6UZwZQmVIwrpdLJGHUzfyhuEjTjBzE2BoOT06nT9vwMsTHoClCfzIzN3_GcT0rBvj6MqlLaPQx6-c0UQZauhfpMYMPRhu1QtbMnL_w/s320/20230409_064521.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The one green/gray one is due to dyeing it with turmeric for a couple of hours and then throwing it in the cabbage dye overnight. <p></p><p><b><u>Yellow Dye Recipe:</u></b></p><p><br /></p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Two heaping spoons of tumeric</li><li>A couple of cups of water</li><li>About 1/4 cup of white vinegar</li></ul><p></p><p><br /></p><p>I put this all on a glass bowl and mixed it up. I didn't heat up the mixture (which may have made it quicker but eh). Really, I just put the hard boiled eggs in the mix and left them in the fridge (with a lid) overnight. </p><p><br /></p><p><b><u>Blue Dye Recipe:</u></b></p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Half a head of purple cabbage</li><li>A couple of cups of water</li><li>another 1/4 cup of white vinegar</li></ul><div>Just rip up the cabbage leaves or chop them and thrown them into a pot. Add in the water and once, the water is boiling, set it to simmer for 15 minutes. I accidentally used too much water (4 cups) and while it worked, I think it would have been slightly quicker to dye if I hadn't used so much water. </div><div><br /></div><div>Once it's boiled, the leaved will be a pale purple with a lot of green. It was really amusing to see. Just gather up the purple water and add the white vinegar to that for your dye bath. I left the eggs in the dye bath overnight (glass bowl with the lid) to get the indigo color. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGYvMy7SvcYECmWZPcDPNvpkl04VDRfUIQr4JTa_2q1JBE5kyDaQTROagE0UyVGov8zCntEPTVUY28eJRyeBoCC4Z8Ep-cueC-nD0dFoEivtth-VduvRq_R8iebenESrRdvtFOFPYj6a8TfJoMb4QbJ-7svdvvpxGpfUJ_Ap1GEjEpCXR63Ps4FCtdSQ/s1797/20230409_064528.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1348" data-original-width="1797" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGYvMy7SvcYECmWZPcDPNvpkl04VDRfUIQr4JTa_2q1JBE5kyDaQTROagE0UyVGov8zCntEPTVUY28eJRyeBoCC4Z8Ep-cueC-nD0dFoEivtth-VduvRq_R8iebenESrRdvtFOFPYj6a8TfJoMb4QbJ-7svdvvpxGpfUJ_Ap1GEjEpCXR63Ps4FCtdSQ/s320/20230409_064528.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>I was hoping for a bright green with the cross dyed one but oh well. It was a fun experiment. The nice thing is that purple cabbage was known in the Middle Ages. I need to see if I can find a recipe or mention of using it as a dye as this does seem to work well and is easy to accomplish for a pretty decent blue. </div><p></p>Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-8600334271909674092023-02-04T16:26:00.000-05:002023-02-04T16:26:16.614-05:00Hairpins in the Medieval Era<p>Hello! Is this thing on? I know it's been a long while since I've posted. I'm back in the States, working at a wonderful new fully remote job where I get to do research all day! </p><p>I thought to post because I came across yet another "Medieval Myth" today that bugged me. Someone said that they didn't have bobby pins in the middle ages and they always did hair taping.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.pinimg.com/564x/57/1f/b8/571fb8149fc5555cb21df4331d295e80.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="773" data-original-width="564" height="773" src="https://i.pinimg.com/564x/57/1f/b8/571fb8149fc5555cb21df4331d295e80.jpg" width="564" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>Now, hair taping was a thing but it was not the <i>only</i> thing going on. There is more than enough <a href="https://neulakko.net/?p=1356">archeological evidence for hairpins</a>. Here are just some of the examples we have:</p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2016JG7367/full/735,/0/default.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="551" data-original-width="735" height="362" src="https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2016JG7367/full/735,/0/default.jpg" width="483" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O497539/hairpin/">V & A Museum, C. 900's-1200's</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br />That's pretty clearly a hairpin as we would know them today but here's some more.<div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2021MX8967/full/735,/0/default.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="401" height="671" src="https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2021MX8967/full/735,/0/default.jpg" width="336" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O497538/hairpin/">V & A c. 960-1279</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2019MF9765/full/735,/0/default.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="413" data-original-width="735" height="305" src="https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2019MF9765/full/735,/0/default.jpg" width="543" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O498917/hairpin/">V & A c. 960-1279</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /><p><br /></p><p>Basically, we have plenty of extant evidence for hairpins. While these are all medieval and I haven't seen any in the 15th or 16th C, I also haven't researched more than 10 minutes on this. I just knew it was wrong. :-)</p><p><br /></p></div>Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-62033346330792060582021-09-12T23:33:00.001-04:002021-09-12T23:33:33.894-04:00New Regency Era Court Gown<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T-zjNE5NcX8/YT693GdG8jI/AAAAAAAA43k/hNTr19ZGc1oTLYC3xPOaT-9RLBXBbaLkgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210911_224158.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T-zjNE5NcX8/YT693GdG8jI/AAAAAAAA43k/hNTr19ZGc1oTLYC3xPOaT-9RLBXBbaLkgCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/20210911_224158.jpg" /></a></div><p> </p>
<p> Hello! I have been sewing, it's just been a lot of modern stuff until this week! (I got tired of posting all the modern stuff because, well, how many knit dresses do y'all really want to see?)
</p><p>Since I live in England now, I got to go to the Jane Austen festival <i>finally</i>. It was toned down this year but amazing. I absolutely love Bath and had a great time.
</p><p>My gown for the ball was the only new gown I made (because I have umm....a lot of Regency gowns? Like....a lot?). I looked through all my fabric and saw this old sari that I didn't have anything in particular planned for. It immediately got snatched out to of the closet and declared to be the fabric for the gown.
</p><p><b>Pattern:</b>
</p><p> I actually used a pattern that I apparently drafted up ten years ago. Eeck! It only needed a couple of minor changes to it at the back (it was slightly too big of all things!). The sleeves for the pattern were a new draft. I used <a href="https://isabelladangelo.blogspot.com/2014/04/drafting-sleeve.html">nearly the exact same method as here</a> to recreate a sleeve base from Janet Arnold (one of the early 1800's gowns). For the gauzy sleeve you see, I simply cut the sleeve base in four, expanded the sleeve base out, and played a game of connect the dots. So, the linen undersleeve is the same as the new sleeve base I drafted out but the gauzy sleeve is the expanded one. I gathered the gauzy silk to the linen undersleeve and stitched those together first. I then added the cuff trim to the bottom of the sleeve and then sewed the sleeve up. It made it much easier that way (trying to fit cuffs around the sewing machine is always a nightmare.).
</p><p> The skirt is just three big rectangles. I cut off the pallu of the sari and made most of that the train for the gown. The train was lined in the same <a href="https://isabelladangelo.blogspot.com/2020/02/carnivale-gown-based-loosely-off-of.html">blue silk taffeta I used to make Felicity's Christmas Gown for Carnivale last year</a>. I still have enough of the silk left to maybe make a forepart, line some sleeves, and make a bodice? We'll see!
</p><p>The "skirt" of the sari I used for the skirt of the dress; I just cut it into two because I wanted an apron front gown. The top of the skirt has a "belt" of the silk taffeta which the gathered bodice piece is attached over.
</p><p>The bodice itself is an old pattern but, as I mentioned, I modified slightly. Other than taking it in in the back, I also curved the front to have an "open" front - or apron gown- rather than a normal closed front. The two embroidered front pieces are pinned down to the apron front but I might eventually add a gold belt to hold them together.
</p><p><b>First Wearing</b>
</p><p>Honestly? This gown came out a lot better than I expected. I finished it just a couple of hours before the ball. (I brought my sewing machine with me to the hotel!) My mind has been so on 18th Century and Renaissance that I <i>forgot</i> how to do Regency and had to remind myself how to piece together an apron front gown. Once I got to making it, I quickly remembered, thankfully!.
</p><p>I wore the train over my arm most of the time (like in a lot of court gown fashion plates from the period!) to dance and it was very easy to dance in as well as wear. I didn't have any major issues but might make more petticoats to really puff out the gown.
</p><p><b>Inspiration</b>
</p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/4838126039/in/album-72157624478988677/" title="M5053MA_MODX06X00068_L_2"><img alt="M5053MA_MODX06X00068_L_2" height="405" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/4104/4838126039_3a382b7bb2_b.jpg" width="256" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.pinimg.com/564x/0a/63/3e/0a633e5d4fde1082c1f2f7609aefda26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="446" height="463" src="https://i.pinimg.com/564x/0a/63/3e/0a633e5d4fde1082c1f2f7609aefda26.jpg" width="258" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.pinimg.com/564x/59/41/dd/5941dd92f16b90cf2164665cb437eed2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="468" height="445" src="https://i.pinimg.com/564x/59/41/dd/5941dd92f16b90cf2164665cb437eed2.jpg" width="261" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Although the second isn't a court gown, these were three of my main inspirations. All are from about 1804-1805. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I'll probably make another gown like this one and will definitely add some stuff (it needs gold trim around the neckline!) to the new blue court gown I have now!</div><br /><div style="display: block;"><br /></div><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p>Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-22937872611480879022021-06-04T16:51:00.002-04:002021-06-04T16:51:15.108-04:00New Hawaiian Shirt Dress<p> For the summer, Friday's at work are now Hawaiian Shirt days! The problem: I don't have a Hawaiian Shirt. Eek! </p><p>The solution: I happened to have a lovely Hawaiian print cotton I planned to make into a dress anyway. </p><p>With Sew Magazine, I fairly recently received a copy of <a href="https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/brands/new-look/new-look-pattern-6449-misses-easy-shirt-dress-and-knit-dress/">New Look 6449</a>.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fsXReyyHRuU/YLqNK1Q-fiI/AAAAAAAA4eM/Iu-3EIMVtm4e2dgcuNGIjcJZat0e2XStgCLcBGAsYHQ/s500/newlook-dresses-pattern-6449-envelope-front.webp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fsXReyyHRuU/YLqNK1Q-fiI/AAAAAAAA4eM/Iu-3EIMVtm4e2dgcuNGIjcJZat0e2XStgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/newlook-dresses-pattern-6449-envelope-front.webp" /></a></div><br /><p>I only had 3 yards of the cotton print and that's all the shirt dress calls for. Easy!</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ib5fPyNOBWs/YLqQd9ERjNI/AAAAAAAA4eU/RpDa38_yMs4Wx5TVAiY06IV4S_k4iWwmACLcBGAsYHQ/s2693/DSC08698%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2693" data-original-width="1168" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ib5fPyNOBWs/YLqQd9ERjNI/AAAAAAAA4eU/RpDa38_yMs4Wx5TVAiY06IV4S_k4iWwmACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/DSC08698%2Bcopy.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sp2utKjiMlE/YLqQeLOtioI/AAAAAAAA4eY/I2w7FGrGbwETI0K5zWlMKuY2W41kn3tLwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2516/DSC08699%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2516" data-original-width="1249" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sp2utKjiMlE/YLqQeLOtioI/AAAAAAAA4eY/I2w7FGrGbwETI0K5zWlMKuY2W41kn3tLwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/DSC08699%2Bcopy.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p>I think it came out pretty cute. I did place the shirt pocket a bit too high. Mea Culpa. The back yoke ended up being a bit tricky. The collar wouldn't fit unless I pleated and stitched down the center back of the yoke. The problem is when I did that, I didn't cut down the neckline itself to force the new lines of the yoke to fit better in the back. The shoulder "scrunch up" a bit because of that but it's not a huge issue. </p><p>I do like the deep pockets on the dress and the overall fit is good. I also added a bit more at the skirt (maybe an extra 4" on either side of the front and back pieces) because I wanted a bit more of an a-line look going on. I wore the dress today with leggings from April Cornell. It ended up being very comfortable and I'm definitely going to wear the dress again. </p><p>Probably should point out that my favorite aspect of the dress is really the sleeves. Those little tabs are amazing. :-)</p>Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-19609001349416201412021-03-28T13:03:00.002-04:002021-03-28T13:03:17.687-04:00Modern Clothing: New Look Pattern 6529/ Red cotton leggings and gray fleece hoodie<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zog4OAh4BoE/YGCyGx_lg2I/AAAAAAAA4aA/3Rs5zY_l03Qwu1dSC31btI-FSoyXfOzGgCLcBGAsYHQ/s3391/back.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b70el7Y-pUk/YGCyHPnql9I/AAAAAAAA4aE/NgVgUlBk9YgmplXl6dZNTyrMrI2ImQjrACLcBGAsYHQ/s3615/front.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="3615" data-original-width="1753" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b70el7Y-pUk/YGCyHPnql9I/AAAAAAAA4aE/NgVgUlBk9YgmplXl6dZNTyrMrI2ImQjrACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/front.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front View</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zog4OAh4BoE/YGCyGx_lg2I/AAAAAAAA4aA/3Rs5zY_l03Qwu1dSC31btI-FSoyXfOzGgCLcBGAsYHQ/s3391/back.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="3391" data-original-width="1745" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zog4OAh4BoE/YGCyGx_lg2I/AAAAAAAA4aA/3Rs5zY_l03Qwu1dSC31btI-FSoyXfOzGgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/back.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back View</td></tr></tbody></table><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zog4OAh4BoE/YGCyGx_lg2I/AAAAAAAA4aA/3Rs5zY_l03Qwu1dSC31btI-FSoyXfOzGgCLcBGAsYHQ/s3391/back.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: left;"><br /></a></div>
<p>Hello! Finally mostly settled in my new house and I can start sewing again. Because we are still sort of in Lockdown (we can do day trips tomorrow!!!!), I wanted to make a comfy lazy day outfit. That, and I really need more cotton leggings. :-)
</p><p>For this outfit, I used <a href="https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/women/sportswear/new-look-pattern-6529-misses-knit-tunics-and-leggings/">New Look 6529</a>. The leggings came out a bit on the loose side but that's fine. I might make them a tiny bit slimmer next time. The tunic neck with the hood is a bit tricky and I messed it up but, well, this is a lazy day outfit and my ability to care is sort of out the window.</p><p><br /></p><p><b>Pattern:</b> New Look 6529</p><p><b>Materials</b>: A gray "mystery knit" from last year's Fabric Mart mystery sales. It turned out to be a lightweight stretch fleece that is just perfect for spring. </p><p>The leggings are out of a red 100% cotton knit. </p><p><b>Notions</b>: A slight bit of trim to hide the seams in the hood (maybe a yard and a half?), red thread, gray thread, and enough 1 1/2" elastic to go around my waist. :-)</p><p><b>Time:</b> The leggings were super quick - maybe an hour? The hard part was waiting for the red thread to come in when I discovered I did not have any red thread. Blues, greens, pinks, but no red. All the pattern is is the two legs and, for the waistband, you sew the elastic to the upper outside waistline then fold it in and sew it down. It's a good "I need leggings now" pattern if you have a lot of knit on hand.</p><p>The hoodie took a bit longer. Maybe two and a half hours? I'm not sure partly because I had trouble with the hood. First, I sewed it in the wrong way and then I couldn't get the edges to meet correctly in the front. I gave up a bit and what you see in the photo is sort of the end state. Again, this is a lazy day outfit so I'm not trying to make this look perfect - just comfy. And it is comfy. :-)</p><p><b>Recommend Pattern?</b> Yes!! I'm going to try a couple of the other tunic views and make a few more leggings in different colors. </p>Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-46800608121458917982020-11-01T02:19:00.003-05:002020-11-01T02:20:26.856-05:00Halloween Outfit: New "Lord of the Rings" styled Elven dress!<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zoBg0bGvhTo/X55dyT26xlI/AAAAAAAA4UM/lhCGDNzCf9MLChqHJK1WLOT8NpQZoMt1ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/DSC07740edit.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="320" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1201" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zoBg0bGvhTo/X55dyT26xlI/AAAAAAAA4UM/lhCGDNzCf9MLChqHJK1WLOT8NpQZoMt1ACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/DSC07740edit.jpg"/></a></div>
<p>Not the best picture but you get an idea of how the dress looks on me, at least. I realized on Thursday night that the reason I was so hesitant to make the Bellatrix LeStrange outfit I had planned on for Halloween was simple - I didn't have all the materials I wanted on hand. I didn't get the hooks and eyes for the leather doublet until Friday afternoon. I never found a good black silk (what the heck? White silk, orange silk, but not black silk anywhere around me?) so making the outfit with "make do" materials wasn't an option.
<p>Instead, I realized I had plenty of stuff to make a Lord of the Rings Elf gown. I wasn't too picky about screen accurate in this case - just something so I would blend in as an extra without anyone noticing. :-) The rose stretch velvet has been in the stash for at least two years. I originally wanted to make a Christmas gown out of it but the style I wanted to do I ended up already have two dresses similar to that... No reason for yet a third dress! The undergown is some silk dupioni I got from one of the <a href="http://www.fabricmartfabrics.com">Fabric Mart</a> sales. It was $6 a yard with a ten yard limit. :-) I used only maybe 2 1/2 of those yards to make the undergown and the long, pointed sleeves under the chiffon sleeves.
<p>The chiffon sleeves were part of an old dupatta I had to use in sewing stuffs. The top of the sleeve is somewhat fitted and then I just left the rest of the dupatta ends to include all the pretty embroidery.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U4XTznKqCCo/X55gD8uI7nI/AAAAAAAA4UY/rKlAzw5BhegwY-JKU00Waj6x2TWAiOjaACLcBGAsYHQ/s5472/DSC07765.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="320" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U4XTznKqCCo/X55gD8uI7nI/AAAAAAAA4UY/rKlAzw5BhegwY-JKU00Waj6x2TWAiOjaACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/DSC07765.JPG"/></a></div>
<p>The pattern for the dress is my own. It's one piece in the front and two pieces in the back. It's actually the pattern I use for loose knit work dresses because it's comfy and looks nice on. I just elongated it for the Halloween dress. I also cut the velvet with a lower neckline. I was going to add trim to the silk and the velvet necklines but I didn't get around to it.
<p>I wore this to a wine tasting (LOL!) and to go grocery shopping on Halloween and I had a lot of people compliment me on the dress. Some people thought I was a "Regina" or Queen while most did get that I was an Elf. :-)
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SkF49UygTxk/X55g_SUvOVI/AAAAAAAA4Uo/_wC9aVFcQ_gDDeR7QO3qLsXw9XvPpD8wACLcBGAsYHQ/s5472/DSC07764.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="320" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SkF49UygTxk/X55g_SUvOVI/AAAAAAAA4Uo/_wC9aVFcQ_gDDeR7QO3qLsXw9XvPpD8wACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/DSC07764.JPG"/></a></div>
<p>The above is the front of the dress but on the dress form. Since I'm bigger than the dress form, it looks a bit off.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-waCINjzP9oU/X55g_QPZ3CI/AAAAAAAA4Uk/ITXht8ifjccDaZ6haU-Maw34CF8_77FJACLcBGAsYHQ/s5472/DSC07767.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="320" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-waCINjzP9oU/X55g_QPZ3CI/AAAAAAAA4Uk/ITXht8ifjccDaZ6haU-Maw34CF8_77FJACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/DSC07767.JPG"/></a></div>
<p>The back of the dress.
<p>The dress, overall, was pretty easy to put together. It was maybe a little over an hour of sewing? Cutting it out took another hour because chiffon sleeves are not an easy cut....Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-15374416631455326232020-09-16T12:15:00.003-04:002020-09-16T12:15:16.499-04:0012th C Linen Dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HP4ySStf9I0/X2I3_mg5muI/AAAAAAAA4R8/nU922HPWTt46vsoEN9XvMVE2grHpXjbLACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/DSC07588%2Bcopy.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="320" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1304" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HP4ySStf9I0/X2I3_mg5muI/AAAAAAAA4R8/nU922HPWTt46vsoEN9XvMVE2grHpXjbLACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/DSC07588%2Bcopy.jpg"/></a></div>
I had a lot of fun with this one. The material is 100% linen I got from Fabric Mart. Orginally, I wanted a nice Norse outfit with it. However, after seeing the material, it demanded to be more a 12th C Bliaut than anything else.
Inspiration:
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Om2-uoALZJU/X2I471omeAI/AAAAAAAA4SI/oeFD1SjCuQUTjSSEkNx0YhQ88Oe7mUPMQCLcBGAsYHQ/s424/Stuttgart-cod.bibl.fol.56-030-detail.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="320" data-original-height="424" data-original-width="131" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Om2-uoALZJU/X2I471omeAI/AAAAAAAA4SI/oeFD1SjCuQUTjSSEkNx0YhQ88Oe7mUPMQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Stuttgart-cod.bibl.fol.56-030-detail.jpg"/></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fkPxz3fpBsc/X2I4722qmSI/AAAAAAAA4SM/zLEMRDII7r4JQ3qvBArZoRVvsnu42B3UwCLcBGAsYHQ/s418/Stuttgart-cod.bibl.fol.57-004-detail.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="320" data-original-height="418" data-original-width="211" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fkPxz3fpBsc/X2I4722qmSI/AAAAAAAA4SM/zLEMRDII7r4JQ3qvBArZoRVvsnu42B3UwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Stuttgart-cod.bibl.fol.57-004-detail.jpg"/></a></div>
Both the above were taken from <a href="http://www.hrafnheim.fr/hervaldsheim/couture-tissu/realisations/18-costume-feminin-de-noble-debut-xiieme-est-de-la-france?showall=&start=1">here</a>. They are both middle of the 12th Century and I just love the dropped neckline to show the undergown.
Patterns:
Really, the teal undergown is your basic A-line tunic. The pink overgown, is pretty much a a-line gown with self drafted sleeves. There wasn't much that was complicated about this outfit which is why I love it. I've been wearing it during the online training I've been taking for work because why the heck not?
Materials:
Linen and thread. That's it!
More stuffs:
I wish I did have more to say other than it is so terribly comfortable and fun to wear. It's an easy dress up/dress down type of outfit which I love. I might add trim to it but I think it works as is. Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-87898408117564720152020-08-16T05:37:00.004-04:002020-08-16T05:37:39.746-04:00One of my latest facemasks while visiting a 15th C castle in Slovenia<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Tt5A7fIuEhk/Xzj82Q0CNvI/AAAAAAAA4Qg/NsiSc0d7VT83bD21ddDP4XWKjrHjbY1PQCLcBGAsYHQ/s5472/DSC06485.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Tt5A7fIuEhk/Xzj82Q0CNvI/AAAAAAAA4Qg/NsiSc0d7VT83bD21ddDP4XWKjrHjbY1PQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/DSC06485.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This one is another basic black facemask with a bit of purply magentaish lace edging across the front. I'm going to make another one with a teal veil next. I took the picture in the knight's chambers at the Prejama Castle in Slovenia. The castle itself is pretty amazing. It's built right into the mountain in front of a large cave system.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5m-GinXIxWE/Xzj9lacCM0I/AAAAAAAA4Qo/vADhww-JbV8KC5pBBpFSMznjz3ebMgU2ACLcBGAsYHQ/s5472/DSC06374.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5m-GinXIxWE/Xzj9lacCM0I/AAAAAAAA4Qo/vADhww-JbV8KC5pBBpFSMznjz3ebMgU2ACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/DSC06374.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">You can get into a few of the caverns within the castle. The audio guide for the castle is next to useless. Somehow, the guide was insistent that the castle was drafty and cold. Sorry, but no. They restored it pretty well and you can see the lovely limewash on the walls that would have prevented most drafts. That plus all the fireplaces? It would have been the place to be in the winter. In the summer, it does stay cool but that's because of the proper air circulation from the river below the castle. </div><p></p>Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-81371751455366292822020-07-28T14:51:00.001-04:002020-07-28T14:51:46.312-04:00Sari made into a 1490's Venetian dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r9ZdYI7st_g/XyBxwdhXCpI/AAAAAAAA4PM/ay3AS9s1wyY1sz8Sunl9a2WYaZIYY0K0wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DSC05367%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="575" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r9ZdYI7st_g/XyBxwdhXCpI/AAAAAAAA4PM/ay3AS9s1wyY1sz8Sunl9a2WYaZIYY0K0wCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/DSC05367%2Bcopy.jpg" width="143" /></a></div>
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I made this back in May and forgot to post it. Self-drafted out of a sari I found at a thrift store last year. Although the paisley pattern on the sari isn't accurate for the late 15th/early 16th c, the sari was too pretty to not be made into something.<br />
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The pallu of the sari ended up being the faux underskirt and the gauntlets. The bodice is made from the blouse piece and part of the hem of the original sari skirt. I cut up the sari skirt into five panels - three panels have a "flower" design on them and make up the overskirt fronts and the back of the dress. The plain (it has the hem treatment but not design on the body of it) parts of the skirt became the sides of the gown. The upper part of the skirt had a lovely trim detail that I cut off and made into the trim you see around the open front and around the faux front on the bodice.<br />
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It fits really well. I can't wait for this COVID to be over and I can wear it to an event!<br />
<br />Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-67154067123989117992020-07-28T14:38:00.001-04:002020-07-28T14:38:55.022-04:00Pistachio tiered twirly maxi skirt! No pattern! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SBQy7b2aHH8/XyBtP030XNI/AAAAAAAA4Ow/H6UeoFWWgAMbzmQO8nC0sbg_Mk6MyeBDwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/pistaschioskirt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="829" data-original-width="1600" height="329" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SBQy7b2aHH8/XyBtP030XNI/AAAAAAAA4Ow/H6UeoFWWgAMbzmQO8nC0sbg_Mk6MyeBDwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/pistaschioskirt.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Just a simple skirt for work! It's out of some of the $2 mystery fabric sale stuff from Fabric Mart. The solid green is a crinkle poly fabric. The patterned is a mystery knit. I just cut a bunch of strips of each fabric, sewed them together, gathered it on the machine and then sewed the tiers. The lining is a crinkle cotton. I added a elastic waistband and a ribbon drawstring. <br />
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It's pretty basic but it's nice twirly. It works well as a summer office skirt.Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-73976438880626985512020-05-03T06:40:00.001-04:002020-05-03T06:40:39.623-04:00Jeans Recycle!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3-Ot8JWR7Ks/Xq6d8cLHLdI/AAAAAAAA4Is/Ex1u1TvvSCwdO4rup96dW4eJcN3c4lyFACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DSC05278%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1387" data-original-width="1600" height="277" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3-Ot8JWR7Ks/Xq6d8cLHLdI/AAAAAAAA4Is/Ex1u1TvvSCwdO4rup96dW4eJcN3c4lyFACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/DSC05278%2Bcopy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Another modern outfit but I used an old pair of black jeans. The jeans had thinned and were slightly ripped on the inseam at the crotch so they had to be put in the "to be used as fabric" pile. I loved all the jean skirts out of jeans ideas but wanted something a bit more flirty. When I made the <a href="https://isabelladangelo.blogspot.com/2020/04/new-look-6495-in-black-and-magenta.html">black and magenta knit dress</a>, I really fell in love with that skirt and decided to make a jean skirt similar to that style. </div>
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The top of the jeans stayed the same. I just cut off the legs and use one pant leg for the front and back of the skirt and then took out all the seams from the other and used that for the sides. </div>
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The back of the skirt isn't perfect but it honestly looks better in person. I just always loved the embroidery on the pockets of these jeans and couldn't bear to just thrown these out. I had to make something out of them!</div>
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The skirt from the side. You can see the original "cuff" of the pant leg here in the front. For the back, I took the "upper" edge of the pant leg, flipped it, and made the upper edge the hem. This gives the back a bit more width at the bottom hem in the back. I did piece the skirt slightly in the back as well but I had enough to piece the skirt and it isn't super noticeable where the piecing is. </div>
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I'm going back and forth on adding lace to the bottom edge but I think I might keep it as is. The skirt is just the right length for me and I don't think lace would look right with a lot of my generic t-shirts I'll wear with it. </div>
<br />Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-56785824513009912842020-04-22T03:46:00.002-04:002020-04-22T03:46:57.278-04:00Yellow knit!Back in August 2019, I bought one of the Fabric Mart Fashion Bundles. It's just a mystery box of six yards of fabric. In it, I got a yard and a half of a red knit, a couple of yards of a white cotton with a 1980's rainbow print on it, and almost three yards of a modal blend banana yellow knit. Since this past weekend, I've been working on garments from the yellow knit. In total, I made three items from it and I also made a shrug from the red knit (still have plenty left to do something else with the red knit!).<br />
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By no means a pretty picture but these are a very practical pair of gym shorts. They are from <a href="https://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/1094">New Look pattern number 6139</a>. I'm not too concerned about how they look because, well, gym shorts. They did come out well though.<br />
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The shrug is out of the same yellow modal knit and is edged in black lace. The pattern is a modified <a href="http://thoughtsandthimbles.blogspot.com/2009/08/building-pattern-wardrobe-part-3.html">Simplicity 4334</a>. I elongated the sleeves to elbow length because I don't want super short sleeves. This looks fabulous on. Also, I highly recommend the pattern if you can get your hands on it - it just has a lot of useful basic items and is a good wardrobe builder as the linked page suggests.</div>
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The above images are of the red shrug I made from the cotton blend (I think?) I got in the fashion bundle and a yellow t-shirt dress. The shrug is also from Simplicity 4334 - with slightly shorter sleeves but still longer than the pattern. The dress is <a href="https://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/80987">McCalls 7432</a>. </div>
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This is the dress without the shrug and yes, it looks funny on the dress dummy. That's because the dress dummy is a size 6 and I'm...not. It's also short waisted and I'm not. The dress actually fits well but is a bit clingy. I might make a longer jacket to go with it or just wear the dress under sheer overdresses for now. <br />
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I promise, some actual SCA clothing is coming soon! I just need to clear out some of my "work" clothing projects and the UFO bin. Also, I was waiting to loose some weight before I start back on garb. Luckily, I'm finally managing to keep my weight down and, hopefully, can make some neat looking garb starting next week. Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-90300097469685346312020-04-12T18:24:00.000-04:002020-04-12T18:24:08.568-04:00Happy Easter!!!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Since, where I am, we are on lockdown, I decided this Easter to bring out the decorations as much as possible. The tablecloth is a piece of barkcloth my Mom gave to me a bit ago. I love the color and know enough about barkcloth that I am not cutting that up. Instead, I just hemmed the edges. </div>
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The chair covers are one of those thrift store disappointments turned into a lucky find. I bought what I thought was 3 meters of linen for €10 back in February at my favorite thrift store. When I unfolded it completely when I got home, rather than a small bit of embroidering near the hem, there were three large cut out and embroidered pieces in the middle of the fabric. I threw the fabric to the corner until I decided I wanted to have a nice Easter dinner outside.</div>
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I realized the cutouts in the linen just happened to be the same shape as the back of the chairs. I drafted a patter, cut everything out, sewed it up, and have two nice white linen chair covers for the garden chairs. </div>
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The bunny on a top hat was just fun. I bought that when I went out to get hand sanitizer.</div>
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Not the greatest picture but it works! This is the dress I made out of some silk blend I got at Fabric Mart. The lining in the body and the cuffs is also silk. </div>
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The pattern is McCalls' 4061 and is from 1974.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0cjKcNd4cCY/XpOUTtb95EI/AAAAAAAA4E4/Qv8DNyMX-e4Kkp_LVLUTDBNo2uvOlACyACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/754ccdf4b87f540676fb95ab238554d1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0cjKcNd4cCY/XpOUTtb95EI/AAAAAAAA4E4/Qv8DNyMX-e4Kkp_LVLUTDBNo2uvOlACyACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/754ccdf4b87f540676fb95ab238554d1.jpg" width="250" /></a></div>
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I had to edit it a bit because the original pattern was just a bit too small. I also drafted my own sleeves because I never like the pattern sleeves - no one needs that much ease!!!! </div>
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The dress itself was pretty simple and straight forward. I messed up the collar a bit but the rest of the dress came out well. I think it might work slightly better with a knit material instead.</div>
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I hope everyone had a happy and safe Easter!!!</div>
<br />Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-41808771187384476442020-04-05T07:26:00.001-04:002020-04-05T07:26:43.123-04:00I'm having too much fun making these...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M59Nwma73jc/Xom--JkwPDI/AAAAAAAA4EM/ExzOOXK2lIEY5H8MPn4j7Xwvuut_7MADACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/mylatestfacemask%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M59Nwma73jc/Xom--JkwPDI/AAAAAAAA4EM/ExzOOXK2lIEY5H8MPn4j7Xwvuut_7MADACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/mylatestfacemask%2Bcopy.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<b>This one:</b><br />
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The base is out of black cotton and more of the tropical weight tan wool. The wool serves only as an inner layer to the actual mask. The veil is out of some semi sheer silk dupioni I've probably had for years (the tag on it was Hancock fabrics!). The coin trim I think I got from Joanns a few years ago as well. The black bias trim is thanks to an <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072N65YLT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1">Amazon purchase in which I ordered 50 yards</a>. <br />
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<b>The pattern:</b><br />
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<a href="https://isabelladangelo.blogspot.com/2020/03/the-latest-in-italian-fashion.html">Same one!</a> The masks all full cover your face and are comfortable. Even without the veil, these are pretty coverall masks and will allow you to get into the grocery store. I love that this is the only time in history that you have to wear a mask into a store or bank! No mask, no gloves, no service! :-)Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-9343226905314607132020-04-05T00:51:00.000-04:002020-04-05T00:51:28.446-04:00New Facemask!Because there is no reason to not be fashionable during the plague!<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QzKcB4zFkxY/XolhNWxGiBI/AAAAAAAA4EA/8LCm6JTmFHIKkM3AXiFYIs3Cs18dG87YQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/myfacemask.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QzKcB4zFkxY/XolhNWxGiBI/AAAAAAAA4EA/8LCm6JTmFHIKkM3AXiFYIs3Cs18dG87YQCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/myfacemask.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
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I used the <a href="https://isabelladangelo.blogspot.com/2020/03/the-latest-in-italian-fashion.html">same pattern I used here</a>. The differences are that I have the bias trim so that the ties cross under the chin now to wrap around the lower part of the skull and tie at the base of the skull. Also, the lovely black lace is a bit different. :-)<br />
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I had some left over black lace from an 1860's Ball gown that I apparently never published here. I made the gown a long time ago and really loved the look of the lace. The piece left over was only long enough for one 18th C cuff but I couldn't part with it. Luckily, it's now the perfect fit for a facemask! I stay stitched it to the top of the facemask, matching centers, and then added the upper bias trim.<br />
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It was fun to wear this while grocery shopping. I plan on making a few more like this - including one with my beaded coin trim because when else will I get to wear crazy stuff like this and no one think anything of it? :-)Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-9571430307523704132020-04-04T13:23:00.000-04:002020-04-04T13:23:15.449-04:00New Look 6495 in black and magenta cotton knit!This is a project that has been lagging in my UFO pile for a few months. With Zona Rossa, I finally got around to making it. <br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bvk3jwI2YGY/XojArJoYQYI/AAAAAAAA4Dc/isd-XsQ9hhQn8CMP7VcV2e5qbaW_5iXZQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/6495.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bvk3jwI2YGY/XojArJoYQYI/AAAAAAAA4Dc/isd-XsQ9hhQn8CMP7VcV2e5qbaW_5iXZQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/6495.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I did view C. If I do the pattern again, I'd probably do view D as the skirt is LONG. It's lovely, but it's longer than you'd expect because of the weight and stretch factor of the knit. <br />
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I used a cotton knit I bought at Fabric mart last year or the year before that. It was one of their sales. I didn't change anything about the pattern since I haven't done this one before and I'm always a bit antsy about knits. <br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lc-kz4gLAfg/XojBj2qMq2I/AAAAAAAA4Do/Qyfp_7fK1DAYrNcrf_X0vYnX1YOUZ8jSgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DSC05178%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1316" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lc-kz4gLAfg/XojBj2qMq2I/AAAAAAAA4Do/Qyfp_7fK1DAYrNcrf_X0vYnX1YOUZ8jSgCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/DSC05178%2Bcopy.jpg" width="327" /></a></div>
Not the greatest picture and in full Covid Fashion wear. I didn't make the jacket - I think I got that at TJ Max years ago- but the mask and the dress are both things I've sewn. :-) <br />
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The yoke on the dress is funny - it's too big in the armscye and you can see it's concave at the neckline. I think, if I make this again, I'd skip the bodice section and just draft up my own bodice. it's not bad, it just isn't perfect though. <br />
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However the skirt? The skirt <i>is</i> perfect! I am in love with the way the skirt flows on this dress! It's so lovely! I'll probably end up wearing this dress tomorrow for fun and amusement because, eh, why not? It's not like I have to be anywhere right now. Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-66869130088664406622020-03-31T14:07:00.001-04:002020-03-31T14:07:44.372-04:00Potato Leek Soup!Since I have time again to cook at home, and I really wanted soup, I made Potato Leek soup today! I bought ingredients a couple of days ago when I went grocery shopping. We are supposed to limit our grocery shopping as much as possible here in zona rossa. It came out amazingly well and I will very much make this again.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EKVZn8hNjk8/XoODynsvJsI/AAAAAAAA4DM/ENBHbFweb3MaKMwYt6ZyTYqWQH2tcqktwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DSC05148%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1011" data-original-width="1600" height="251" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EKVZn8hNjk8/XoODynsvJsI/AAAAAAAA4DM/ENBHbFweb3MaKMwYt6ZyTYqWQH2tcqktwCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/DSC05148%2Bcopy.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My actual dinner!</td></tr>
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<b>Ingredients:</b><div>
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<div>
<ul>
<li>4 Large Potatoes peeled and cut into chunks</li>
<li>2 green onions, chopped</li>
<li>1 large leek, chopped</li>
<li>1 sprig of thyme (optional)</li>
<li>1 bay leaf</li>
<li>1 cup of chicken broth</li>
<li>salt</li>
<li>pepper</li>
<li>3 tablespoons of butter</li>
<li>1 1/2 cups of milk</li>
<li>2 cloves of garlic, crushed</li>
<li>enough olive oil or any cooking oil to roast the leek and onions</li>
</ul>
<b>Directions:</b></div>
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I just used a big ole stew pot for everything. Once, I had everything cut up, I roasted the leek and green onions with the garlic in the stew pot with the olive oil. Just simmer that over low heat until the leeks are soft.</div>
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Then, add the potatoes, thyme, bay leaf, broth, and some salt and pepper to taste. That that boil until the potatoes are soft (about 5 to 10 minutes on my oven. YMMV).</div>
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Here's the hard part. Take all that off the heat. You need to puree these veggies until it's a greenish mashed potato look to it. Take out the thyme and the bay leaf! I put all the veggies into a mixing bowl and just slowly put some in the blender. Once that set was pureed, I dumped it back into the stew pot and then did the next batch until all the veggies were gone. </div>
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Then, add the butter and the milk to the stew pot. I'm honestly not sure how much milk I added - it was about half a small carton. Just add enough milk to make the soup...soup and not mashed potatoes. Also, a bit more salt and pepper.<br /><br />In the picture, I also added some red salt to the top and marjoram which added a bit more spice to the soup. <br />
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That's it! It was great to have today since it's cold again. I do not like the cold and can't wait until it warms up! </div>
Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-77256649279068280932020-03-22T15:42:00.001-04:002020-04-05T00:51:18.575-04:00The Latest in Italian Fashion....<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JYW7TAp_1AE/XneywNyiKSI/AAAAAAAA4CQ/1q3FSqFHtCEIF5H592wb-5Edr3wEMqU2wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/facemaskme.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JYW7TAp_1AE/XneywNyiKSI/AAAAAAAA4CQ/1q3FSqFHtCEIF5H592wb-5Edr3wEMqU2wCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/facemaskme.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
The face mask! I designed my own using just some scraps and a bit of bias tape. I hope the pattern process that I'll try to explain below makes sense. <br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eHD9uUXPZnw/Xne1Si5ua4I/AAAAAAAA4Cg/w9xocC1qfFkgmeSbZNGPwya-wMsxvw_cwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/measurements.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eHD9uUXPZnw/Xne1Si5ua4I/AAAAAAAA4Cg/w9xocC1qfFkgmeSbZNGPwya-wMsxvw_cwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/measurements.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The lines represent where you should measure.<br />
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<b>Measurements:</b><br />
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<li> The <span style="color: red;">Red line</span> is from the bridge of your nose to just under your chin, where you want the mask to cover.</li>
<li>The <span style="background-color: black; color: yellow;">Yellow line</span> is from top of your cheekbone, under the nose, to the other side of your face.</li>
<li> The <span style="color: #ff9900;">Orange line</span> is from the top of your cheekbone, under the chin, to the other side of your face.</li>
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These are the only measurements you'll really need.<br />
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<h2>
The Pattern</h2>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H3S1aOHGvHQ/XneyvMCrG4I/AAAAAAAA4CM/t8zlipzLC9wBMRGkz19QEglUu9JLbnQKACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/facemaskpattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="688" data-original-width="711" height="386" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H3S1aOHGvHQ/XneyvMCrG4I/AAAAAAAA4CM/t8zlipzLC9wBMRGkz19QEglUu9JLbnQKACLcBGAsYHQ/s400/facemaskpattern.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I tried to do a video and well, I'll try again tomorrow to show how to really draw this pattern out. The red line is the same as the measurement above. Just draw that on your piece of paper, marking off about 1" below the top of that line. Now, draw the yellow horizontal line there using your undernose measurement. Using your measuring tape, as best you can, draw the underchin measurement - this will not be perfect and you'll notice it will not reach the bottom of the red line, that's okay. <br />
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Now for the slightly tricky part. Draw a curve from the end of the yellow line to the long end of the red line - this is the green line in the pattern picture above. It doesn't have to be perfect. I like using the Frixon markers for this because they are erasable! Now, measure the difference between the end of the orange line to the bottom (chin) of the red line. It's typically around 2", give or take an inch. Whatever that measurement is, half it. Now, from the red (Center) line find where that measurement hits the "green" line outer edge. This is the start point for the bottom purple line.<br />
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Draw the curved purple line to just an inch or less above the orange line, hitting the red line. Hopefully the picture makes that make a whole bunch more sense.<br />
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The blue line is nothing more than a very fat bell curve. Again, it doesn't have to be perfect - you'll fix any issue with the mock up. The top purple line starts along the blue line, about 1 cm or so from the red line and curves down towards the red line right where the undernose yellow line is.<br />
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If you want a decent curve, add the gray line - it's really a hand drawn very slight curve joining the two purple lines. The inside of the two purple lines, the gray line, the green line and the top blue line becomes the outline for your mask. (Shown in black above.)<br />
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<h2>
The Materials</h2>
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I used two layers of quilting cotton and one layer of wool. Wool is known to be antimicrobial, making it an excellent inner layer. You can absolutely use just three layers of cotton. I just prefer the wool. <br />
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<ol>
<li> 1/4 of quilting cotton - you probably will not use all of this and can just use scraps from the scrap pile like I did </li>
<li> Fat quarter of wool - again, scrap pile; I used an 8" strip of wool I had</li>
<li>2 yards of double folded wide bias tape</li>
<li> Cotton thread</li>
<li>Fabric scissors</li>
<li> Sewing pins</li>
</ol>
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Trace around the pattern on to the fabric. You'll want to cut four piece of the quilting cotton and two pieces of the wool. Mark, for your own sanity, what the inner seam is.<br />
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Once you cut out the fabric, using the wool - or whatever you have for the inner layer- sew up the center seam. I used a small zigzag stitch but any will do. Now, unfold it with the unfinished seam out, and hold it to your face.<br />
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Look in a mirror and see where you need to make adjustments. Mark those, recut the wool, if necessary, and then make sure you also recut the cotton and, using paper scissors, recut your pattern as well to the "better" fit.<br />
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Once that is done, sew up the center seams, right sides together, of the cotton pieces as well. You should have two quilting cotton layers and the one wool layer. Sandwich them. Have the "fashion fabric" or finished sides of the quilting cotton out (it doesn't really matter which way you have the wool). Pin the edges, particularly at the chin, the bridge of the nose, and the "corners". Stay stitch all around.<br />
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Now, the bias tape. Start with a tail of the bais tape about 14"~16". This will be one of the ties. Sew the bias tape around the top edge of the mask. Leave a similar tail on the other side. For the bottom part of the mask, you'll need your seam ripper.<br />
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About 14"~16" into the bias tape, make a small hole with your seam ripper, right in the middle of the fold of the bias tape. The hole only needs to be big enough to fit the upper tail through. Once you've done that, sew the bias tape around the bottom edge until you are sure where to make the next hole to pull the other top edge tail/tie through. Leave another 14"~16" tail.<br />
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That's it! It sounds way more complicated than it really is. I made this in about a half hour this morning and will make another one tomorrow. These are 100% washable which is fabulous. It also uses up some of those scraps you have been hoarding in the corner. :-) Do NOT use silk, polyester, velvet, tapestry, a heavy twill, or any other materials other than quilting cotton, linen, and tropical weight wool. You need to be able to breathe.<br />
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<br />Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-35600494459395330242020-02-29T13:27:00.000-05:002020-03-02T16:16:53.766-05:00Carnivale Gown based loosely off of Felicity's Christmas Gown<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E-73PCSfD8g/Xlqf5odiyfI/AAAAAAAA3-8/rybJI-iTbNU14SGmIXTdh5xp54URzmrSwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Felicitydress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1091" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E-73PCSfD8g/Xlqf5odiyfI/AAAAAAAA3-8/rybJI-iTbNU14SGmIXTdh5xp54URzmrSwCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/Felicitydress.jpg" width="272" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After the Ball</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The gown above is what I wore to the Mascheranda Ball during Carnivale in Venice. It was one of the last balls (probably <i style="font-weight: bold;">the</i> last one this year) for the Carnivale season. I had fun (even if I almost fainted at one point) and absolutely loved my gown. It needs some small touches, but overall, it is one of my favorites so far.<br />
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</div><div><b>The Inspiration:</b></div><div><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4HasX18cT8o/Xlqg-hWnMlI/AAAAAAAA3_M/K9_rYUrip4cHvvtYWSBH9c69PhUJ4SJzgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/3ac66d65567e6d4ec6c3abc7a180ede4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="718" data-original-width="1000" height="229" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4HasX18cT8o/Xlqg-hWnMlI/AAAAAAAA3_M/K9_rYUrip4cHvvtYWSBH9c69PhUJ4SJzgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/3ac66d65567e6d4ec6c3abc7a180ede4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div>The <a href="http://couturecourtesan.blogspot.com/2016/11/felicitys-suprise-at-last.html">Couture Courtesan</a> did a stunning recreation of the gown a few years ago that I got to see in person at one point. I really hadn't planned on making my own recreation but the silk taffeta I used was only €3 a meter and I cannot pass up a deal like that. Also, it is exactly the right color to make the gown. The silk taffeta begged to be made into Felicity's Christmas Gown. Since I've always been a fan of the pink front stomacher, I decided to go with that instead.<br />
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When planning out the gown, I wanted to keep it semi-historical as possible. I wasn't going to handsew the entire thing but I didn't want to get too anachronistic either. So, I decided to keep the colors and overall shape of the stomacher (more on that in a bit), the trim type (ie, the way it goes up and down the robings and is pleated), and the matching petticoat. When researching dresses with similar trims, I kept coming back to one thing:<br />
<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://collections.lacma.org/node/214643" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="849" data-original-width="560" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oX0hV4bHyDI/XlqjwEkhzmI/AAAAAAAA3_Y/W-5bOLoo4AYkhh2EiYMR0FR3hSEkb0FVQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/ma-30053-WEB.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Woman's Dress and Petticoat (Robe à la française) - LACMA</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-footer="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/30432726@N05/2852236281/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="Robe á la Francaise"><img alt="Robe á la Francaise" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/3245/2852236281_b57992de6d_b.jpg" width="273" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Robe á la Francaise- Nordiska Museet, Stockholm, Sweden</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1yoKCThJKBY/Xlqkbx0K_8I/AAAAAAAA3_g/snPC1W8HKvwmme6RTi-WGbIPyf1k1neuACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/hb_2001.472.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1238" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1yoKCThJKBY/Xlqkbx0K_8I/AAAAAAAA3_g/snPC1W8HKvwmme6RTi-WGbIPyf1k1neuACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/hb_2001.472.jpg" width="264" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Robe à la Française - MET</td></tr>
</tbody></table></td></tr>
</tbody></table>They were all Robe à la Françaises and not Anglaise. So, a Robe à la Française it is! I may have bought uh....10 or so meters of the blue silk taffeta so I wasn't worried about fabric usage. At all.<br />
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The stomacher on Felicity's dress is, of course, meant to kinda look right while also be expedient for making a doll's dress for little girls to play with. The ombre pink ribbon with a twist in the middle isn't exactly period. However, a very similar "look" was - this:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xglFUjKN9Rs/XlqmWeYcETI/AAAAAAAA3_s/Cuup9EYHeVUhqV0Lpv-d6AO0BxorOW-yACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/6003b103107a8737ada75c8d51eb1f43.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="482" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xglFUjKN9Rs/XlqmWeYcETI/AAAAAAAA3_s/Cuup9EYHeVUhqV0Lpv-d6AO0BxorOW-yACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/6003b103107a8737ada75c8d51eb1f43.jpg" width="257" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Portrait d'une femme en robe de satin bleu, 1760 Christian Friedrich Reinhold von Lisiewski</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rrmiosUqT28/XlqmodeYPQI/AAAAAAAA3_0/rVuNx5zmJdcQXIthDeIk9Jk77tlTnXpewCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/260094.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="675" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rrmiosUqT28/XlqmodeYPQI/AAAAAAAA3_0/rVuNx5zmJdcQXIthDeIk9Jk77tlTnXpewCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/260094.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://risdmuseum.org/art-design/collection?search_api_fulltext=stomacher">English American Stomacher</a> - RISD Museum</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qIYcLlB42x8/XlqoEMHRcCI/AAAAAAAA4AA/yZsU_15VDkobt2IcOYR8RriEUcynP8knQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/109e685e0d8f4190aef9dfc552c0e8ee.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="491" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qIYcLlB42x8/XlqoEMHRcCI/AAAAAAAA4AA/yZsU_15VDkobt2IcOYR8RriEUcynP8knQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/109e685e0d8f4190aef9dfc552c0e8ee.jpg" width="261" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Manchester Art Gallery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I kept with the three daggings meeting to make it look more like Felicity's dress, rather than add additional ones. I used silver buttons, rather than pearls, mainly because I lost my beading needle and have no idea where it is. I need to order a new one.<br />
<div><br />
</div><div><b>The materials:</b></div><div><b><br />
</b></div><div>The blue silk taffeta was really only €3 a meter at my local thrift store. Once a season, they get in the "not quite right" fabrics from the designers in Milan. These fabrics sometimes have something wrong with them - a spot here or a bit of undyed yarn. I saw the orange stickers on the blue taffeta but I have zero idea what is wrong with it. It looks fine to me. </div><br />
The pink shantung I got from <a href="https://www.ebay.com/usr/silksunlimited?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2754">Silks Unlimited</a> on ebay for $17 a yard. They, luckily, have a pretty good selection and the color was exactly what I needed. I bought 5 yards and maybe used a 1/4 of that?<br />
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The silver trim is some trim I bought, I think, back in 2016 as part of a very large, very big bin of "just take it!" at a SCA shopping event known as Holiday Faire. The entire bin (think enough to stuff a body in tubberware container) was $15. And yes, I stuffed all the trims from that bin into my suitcase last year and brought them over with me. Because...necessary.<br />
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The silver buttons were also stash.<br />
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<b>The Pattern:</b><br />
<b><br />
</b> Technically, I used this:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5Vpj04pOtXs/Xlqqv2M8ydI/AAAAAAAA4AM/N-y7s0yJIwoCp1eKbxWzjyB3P9WlGh9jgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/c56ce1ffd753f37081ecfdd0437cddcc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="827" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5Vpj04pOtXs/Xlqqv2M8ydI/AAAAAAAA4AM/N-y7s0yJIwoCp1eKbxWzjyB3P9WlGh9jgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/c56ce1ffd753f37081ecfdd0437cddcc.jpg" width="218" /></a></div>To make a Robe à la Française. Yes, it's not a Robe à la Française pattern. In fact, my pattern, I seemed to have lost the sleeve too. Basically, this was only a base and I went off from there. I also <a href="https://isabelladangelo.blogspot.com/2014/04/drafting-sleeve.html">drafted my own sleeve</a> again.<br />
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<b>The gown:</b><br />
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</b> <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q8cLFs2PpdA/XlqsAteO_PI/AAAAAAAA4AY/gmbPYWMXnxoon5rJslm-bf1e_i3SRsXpACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DSC05065.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q8cLFs2PpdA/XlqsAteO_PI/AAAAAAAA4AY/gmbPYWMXnxoon5rJslm-bf1e_i3SRsXpACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/DSC05065.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The skirt</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qyu0etKG7As/XlqsBAE0pkI/AAAAAAAA4Ag/VpUnfI2ADRIkjKkYcyutmAwU9MDiaJLXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DSC05066.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qyu0etKG7As/XlqsBAE0pkI/AAAAAAAA4Ag/VpUnfI2ADRIkjKkYcyutmAwU9MDiaJLXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/DSC05066.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The gown</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hvi4REyPsLE/XlqsA372wZI/AAAAAAAA4Ac/WXizX-toQ2UtfZ41Gmb9Zi9M7IfN52MAgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DSC05068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hvi4REyPsLE/XlqsA372wZI/AAAAAAAA4Ac/WXizX-toQ2UtfZ41Gmb9Zi9M7IfN52MAgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/DSC05068.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The stomacher looking wonky </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x3bFCJ63wzY/XlqsbAm80MI/AAAAAAAA4Aw/Fq8Kf2cuRU4has_C7keARz8iyiQl3qaQACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DSC05056.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x3bFCJ63wzY/XlqsbAm80MI/AAAAAAAA4Aw/Fq8Kf2cuRU4has_C7keARz8iyiQl3qaQACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/DSC05056.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me, with the dress half off! Ha!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>It's not perfect, but I love it! I still have some of the blue taffeta and a lot of the pink left. I might make a very different gown out of it now that the Felicity one is out of the way!<br />
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</b></div>Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-56145971599464030742019-12-02T17:01:00.000-05:002019-12-02T17:01:08.820-05:00The 15th Century "Wrap" Hat<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jV4SXi79RSc/XeVen2mNC3I/AAAAAAAA344/psVpRarbvZYNBC01a_nC9DuZqMotZ7OVQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Weyden_Braque_Family_Triptych_right_wing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1165" data-original-width="905" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jV4SXi79RSc/XeVen2mNC3I/AAAAAAAA344/psVpRarbvZYNBC01a_nC9DuZqMotZ7OVQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Weyden_Braque_Family_Triptych_right_wing.jpg" width="248" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of the<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Braque_Triptych#/media/File:Weyden_Braque_Family_Triptych_right_wing.jpg"> Weyden Triptych</a></td></tr>
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Many years ago when I first started the SCA, I learned about the above painting of Mary Magdalene. Like many others, I fell in love with her kirtle (note: Mary Magdalene is almost always shown in the latest fashions of the day). However, very early on, I was told the hat was considered allegorical and probably not what was really worn. <br />
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A bit later in my SCA career, I found a lot of the wrap style hat from the 15th C and did a post on it in the livejournal years. I had long since forgotten about any controversy over it because it's not my normal geographic area or time period (a couple decades too early for me!). However, thanks to a post on reddit, a lady asked about the hat and it's a good time to write up the research for it.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l3R8Uqja4tc/XeVgLFSBcCI/AAAAAAAA35E/ANgFsC0U4XAO2sm0QHtCFXYHYnTNpFbkgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/weycold1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1116" data-original-width="408" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l3R8Uqja4tc/XeVgLFSBcCI/AAAAAAAA35E/ANgFsC0U4XAO2sm0QHtCFXYHYnTNpFbkgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/weycold1.jpg" width="116" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Detail from van<a href="http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/"> der Weyden's "The Presentation in the Temple"</a></span></td></tr>
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This was one of the first other examples I saw, thanks to Hope Greenberg's page on 15th C dress. It's clearly an example of the wrap hat however, it's also clearly the same model. Same hair color, same nose, and now, the same artist is painting the same hat. While it helps slightly to say the hat probably existed, it also means that it's only one person wearing it - which doesn't help. There is also a sketch of the Magdalene <a href="https://www.wikiart.org/en/rogier-van-der-weyden/saint-mary-magdalene">that Weyden did</a>. Again, the model existed and probably loved her wrap hat but that doesn't mean that it was a fashion statement for everyone.<div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ph_RbxFXP90/XeV7Ly1oHAI/AAAAAAAA35Q/x6xpGecFbXokqcVq9s-qVk0MtGA5cMBuwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DSC03381.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ph_RbxFXP90/XeV7Ly1oHAI/AAAAAAAA35Q/x6xpGecFbXokqcVq9s-qVk0MtGA5cMBuwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/DSC03381.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail from the <a href="https://www.nga.gov/collection/art-object-page.102628.html">Starck Triptych</a> (photo taken by me at the NGA)<br /></td></tr>
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Here we have Saint Veronica with...the wrap hat! Now could it be the same model? Probably not. This Triptych was painted around about the 1480's and Weyden's are from 1452 and 1455, respectively. Also, this Triptych is from Nuremberg in Germany and Weyden was Flemish. He died in the <a href="https://www.artble.com/artists/rogier_van_der_weyden">1464</a>, so for the wrap hat to appear about 20 years later over 300 miles away is a little weird. It could be that someone was just a fan of Weyden's work and copied it but that is unlikely given additional evidence for the wrap hat.<div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g7YxzQQM8bI/XeWASmU2SXI/AAAAAAAA35c/qQadu393ob0Ql7jkDCk1RAtb0tcbKPS1gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/R-20091210-0066.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="854" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g7YxzQQM8bI/XeWASmU2SXI/AAAAAAAA35c/qQadu393ob0Ql7jkDCk1RAtb0tcbKPS1gCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/R-20091210-0066.jpg" width="227" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.nga.gov/collection/art-object-page.75811.html">A Sibyl, 1470s</a></td></tr>
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The sketch above is currently housed at the National Gallery of Art in Washington DC. It's said to be from the 1470s and also from <a href="https://www.nga.gov/collection/art-object-page.75811.html">Nuremberg</a>. Her wrap hat is a bit different but still pretty clearly fabric wrapped around the head to form a brim. <div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NURIcT_PmiQ/XeWCF7yXnbI/AAAAAAAA35o/7FpfOeJMAiU_rjcu5RM_8YhxzSUrzJ8cQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Hugo_van_der_Goes_small_deposition_-_right.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1030" data-original-width="728" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NURIcT_PmiQ/XeWCF7yXnbI/AAAAAAAA35o/7FpfOeJMAiU_rjcu5RM_8YhxzSUrzJ8cQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Hugo_van_der_Goes_small_deposition_-_right.jpg" width="226" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Right Wing of the Deposition Triptych by<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_works_by_Hugo_van_der_Goes"> Van der Goes</a></td></tr>
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The above detail from a painting by Hugo Van der Goes shows a lady in the upper center with a black veil over the back of a wrap hat. Not only is this clearly a very different model, this is from the 1480s and back in the Flemish territories. Now, we have three different painters all showing the hat in the second half of the 15th C with different models wearing it.<div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aCtlx6bLtfg/XeWEQ7rKkGI/AAAAAAAA350/s1ArikwNh24UFxvMstOfE72ORR7RI79qACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/display_image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1188" data-original-width="1600" height="237" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aCtlx6bLtfg/XeWEQ7rKkGI/AAAAAAAA350/s1ArikwNh24UFxvMstOfE72ORR7RI79qACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/display_image.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Circumcision of Christ <a href="https://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/detail.php?ID=117823">(detail from the Twelve Apostle Altarpiece)</a></span></td><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;"><a href="https://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/detail.php?ID=117823"> Friedrich Herlin - circa 1466</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And we are back to Germany with another artist and the Virgin Mary this time wearing the wrap hat. With four different artists showing it, it's most likely that the wrap hat was very much a fashion during the second half of the 15th Century. <div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z6biG9GAm4U/XeWHBQjcyUI/AAAAAAAA36A/fp_utx29Ihg4zogrCYAId8XZE3poeoIqwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Geertgen_tot_Sint_Jans_-_detail_Lamentation_-_goffered_veils.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1183" data-original-width="800" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z6biG9GAm4U/XeWHBQjcyUI/AAAAAAAA36A/fp_utx29Ihg4zogrCYAId8XZE3poeoIqwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Geertgen_tot_Sint_Jans_-_detail_Lamentation_-_goffered_veils.jpg" width="216" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1480s (?) Lamentation detail, painted by<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geertgen_tot_Sint_Jans"> tot Sint Jans</a></td></tr>
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Yes, it looks like she has an air filter wrapped around her head or layered on too many coffee filters. However, this is yet another example of the wrap hat - this time back in the Flemish territory. <div>
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I saw there are many more up on pinterest but these are the few where I could verify to some degree the source and previously knew about. The fun thing about the wrap hat is that it's very simple to make - it looks to be nothing more than a very long roll of 5" wide linen. That's about what I end up having to cut off the edge of the fabric when I do skirts! So, grab some scrap fabric, sew up one edge, and wrap it around your head snuggly. It's period correct!</div>
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Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-34542458554326932152019-11-17T02:42:00.000-05:002019-11-17T02:42:55.176-05:00New Winter Coat! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jS1seTwElME/XdDz6F75Q8I/AAAAAAAA32Q/fNZxR7a7WnMKheQnUG0Femf4RaYTazdUgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/wintercoat2019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1005" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jS1seTwElME/XdDz6F75Q8I/AAAAAAAA32Q/fNZxR7a7WnMKheQnUG0Femf4RaYTazdUgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/wintercoat2019.jpg" width="402" /></a></div>
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Sorry for the covered face but I took this picture at 6:30 in the morning and it was not pretty. However, the picture showcases my new winter coat really well so....</div>
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The pale blue is a wool poly blend I got from <a href="https://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/">Fabric Mart</a> in one of their many wool sales. It was $10.50 a yard and I ended up with three yards. The pink wool is a strip of wool I got from <a href="https://www.tricotcafe.com/en/">Tricot Cafe</a> which is down the street from where I live. I think I paid $10 for the entire strip but I don't remember. I bought this all last year when I thought I'd make the new coat.</div>
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I last made a winter coat back in <a href="https://isabelladangelo.dreamwidth.org/910097.html">2013</a>. I've been wanting a new one for the past couple of years but decided, this year, I would <i>really</i> get to work on it. :-)</div>
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<b>The pattern:</b></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sbG14uY0tVU/XdD3LUhzrVI/AAAAAAAA32s/ikwTG5DKzS48vhA_3R1eMQJDfrQMo5cSwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/551cfb7429fb8de93c2d4668893b5e9a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="841" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sbG14uY0tVU/XdD3LUhzrVI/AAAAAAAA32s/ikwTG5DKzS48vhA_3R1eMQJDfrQMo5cSwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/551cfb7429fb8de93c2d4668893b5e9a.jpg" width="214" /></a></div>
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Simplicity 8298 from 1977. I bought the pattern along with a bunch of others from a lady in Idaho. My copy is a women's size 14 so I didn't have to play with the size on it much. Going from a jacket to a winter coat that would need to accommodate bulky sweaters means that I want the jacket pattern a bit on the big side.</div>
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<b>Some edits I did:</b></div>
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The original jacket is unlined so I had to create a lining pattern. Really, most of it was just cutting one of the fashion fabric and one out of the lining but the front "flap" had a facing. So I traced the front pattern piece on to some Christmas wrapping paper that I don't like anymore and then I traced the facing on top of that. The piece that was "left", I added a 1/2" seam allowance and cut that out as the front lining piece.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iHcYVlkkEGg/XdD4YpgPMmI/AAAAAAAA328/SnpB5GRb5DE7L-H9P27c7YoEsy12D9OPwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DSC03177.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iHcYVlkkEGg/XdD4YpgPMmI/AAAAAAAA328/SnpB5GRb5DE7L-H9P27c7YoEsy12D9OPwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/DSC03177.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The various wrapping paper lining pieces and the sleeve lining</td></tr>
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I also lengthened the jacket pattern by about 3" so it would be more of a winter coat. Since I wanted a hint of pink in the coat, the side front already came in three pieces - I just added the pink wool by cutting out the middle side front from it. I also took the rest of the wool to make a belt that ends in a big ole butt bow in the back. Because. </div>
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<b>Construction:</b></div>
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Overall, the construction was fairly basic. Side front to front. Side back to back. Ect. I did add hem lace to the inside of the coat because I didn't want the flannel backed poly satin to unravel like the hellish material it can be. I also didn't want to double roll it so...hem tape it is!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QG2qtCuj_Nk/XdDz-WOyqLI/AAAAAAAA32U/DwdJDKCd_IwGm8c4MDdomdpoFggKN5JmgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/laceliningwintercoat2019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QG2qtCuj_Nk/XdDz-WOyqLI/AAAAAAAA32U/DwdJDKCd_IwGm8c4MDdomdpoFggKN5JmgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/laceliningwintercoat2019.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close up of the hem tape</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6qDcZz57d3A/XdD0AiCL2iI/AAAAAAAA32Y/D6X5Xk-aztknWRLgzPURY2GG3mpFERKmwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/liningwintercoat2019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6qDcZz57d3A/XdD0AiCL2iI/AAAAAAAA32Y/D6X5Xk-aztknWRLgzPURY2GG3mpFERKmwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/liningwintercoat2019.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Overall lining of the coat</td></tr>
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So far, so good. I might add a hook or another button because the top of the coat fits slightly off. It's not a big deal and the coat is quite warm. Hopefully, I won't have to make another coat for a while!<br />
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<br />Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-49683210471422297722019-09-30T14:27:00.000-04:002019-09-30T14:27:14.498-04:00HSM2019Sep:Katina's Pretty New Green 16th Century Italian Dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Having fun at the Castle</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ui46FlA_mdg/XZI-F-gXUzI/AAAAAAAA3xY/HDp_66dysRk2kdy_jI9iD4YDpng6H2YUwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/DSC03010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ui46FlA_mdg/XZI-F-gXUzI/AAAAAAAA3xY/HDp_66dysRk2kdy_jI9iD4YDpng6H2YUwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/DSC03010.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back of the dress</td></tr>
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<b>The Challenge:</b> <i>September: Everyday: It’s not all special occasion frocks. Make something that would have been worn or used for everyday.</i><br />
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<b>Material:</b> Avocado green linen, orange linen, cotton canvas (inner lining), cotton muslin (lining).<br />
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<b>Pattern: </b> Very heavily modified <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/725310634/mccalls-2806-renaissance-gown-dress?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=mccalls+2806&ref=sr_gallery-1-2&organic_search_click=1">McCalls 2806</a> which is out of print. I used the bodice pieces only and drafted the darts out. I also changed the neckline and the width to fit Katina better.<br />
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<b>Year:</b> 1570s/1580s <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eHHvPxDpC0s/XZJB1SiWqqI/AAAAAAAA3xw/CD_XQd_lTjMkQWZ6uVvx5WREFNyhCCjxQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Capt55ure-238x300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="238" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eHHvPxDpC0s/XZJB1SiWqqI/AAAAAAAA3xw/CD_XQd_lTjMkQWZ6uVvx5WREFNyhCCjxQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Capt55ure-238x300.jpg" width="254" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Federico_Zuccaro_-_Scenes_from_the_Life_of_the_Artist%27s_Family_-_WGA26028.jpg">Painting by Federico Zuccaro dated to 1579</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1HQZe8cGYwk/XZJCalT5SYI/AAAAAAAA3x4/HTASWnTRVLIO7u9MRlGrIPRQ1qzJRblsQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/pietro-ronzelli.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="575" data-original-width="471" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1HQZe8cGYwk/XZJCalT5SYI/AAAAAAAA3x4/HTASWnTRVLIO7u9MRlGrIPRQ1qzJRblsQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/pietro-ronzelli.jpg" width="262" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/7414923266/">Attributed to Pietro Ronzelli, date unknown</a></td></tr>
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<b>Notions:</b> The shoelace to lace the bodice up, thread, and my old green apron<br />
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<b>How historically accurate is it? </b>I machine sewed the insides but all the trim and the eyelets were done by hand so about 90%?<br />
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<b>Hours to complete: </b>I'm honestly not sure. I know I started on it in September but I can't recall how long this one took - maybe five or six hours total?<br />
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<b>First worn: </b>September 28th, 2019<br />
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<b>Total cost: </b>The avocado linen was $10 a yard and I had three yards to play with. The orange linen was $7.50 a yard and I also had 3 yards of that. I'm not sure how much I paid for the cotton canvas originally - maybe $4 a yard? I only used a half yard for the project. The muslin was $4 a yard but 90" wide so I only used 1/4 of that. <br />
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I made two gowns like this - one orange with green trim which I started on back in August- and one green with orange trim - which I started on in September. They are exactly the same in style - the colors are just reversed. <br />
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Katina wanted a dress similar to my <a href="https://isabelladangelo.blogspot.com/2016/07/pennsic-dresses.html">old dresses</a> so this is one of the three I made for her. The orange isn't as bright as in the picture but, well, bright orange is documentable (saffron with madder gets you safety cone orange). I think she had fun wearing the dresses this weekend.Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-159504082744287705.post-31055039578022345002019-09-20T15:53:00.002-04:002019-09-20T15:53:59.531-04:00Painting for my sewing room!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4vPQYbWf78Y/XYUqJZVxlvI/AAAAAAAA3vM/a0pwgba7NgkejSBw33__fTlF_0aiY7PmACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/beforeandafterpainting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1071" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4vPQYbWf78Y/XYUqJZVxlvI/AAAAAAAA3vM/a0pwgba7NgkejSBw33__fTlF_0aiY7PmACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/beforeandafterpainting.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Long story short: I'm in recovery mode right now. I got out of the hospital on Wednesday after having my gallbladder removed. Before going in the hospital, I stopped by one of my local Thrift stores. This one isn't open on Fridays, Saturdays, or Sundays. However, what they do do is put out items that they believe, for whatever reason, won't sell out on the front curb. I've been badly in need of picture frames and snagged a couple for free. I also found this lovely hanging canvas of a giraffe that was meant for a nursery. I figured with a coat of paint, it might not look too shabby.<br />
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Today is the first day since surgery that I've felt "myself" again - and, really, the first time I've felt normal in probably a good month, to be honest. I mean, yeah, my incisions still hurt, but the rest of me feels normal. Trying not to stress it too much but, at the same time, unable to sit around and just be a couch potato, I decided to paint over the poor old giraffe and make him into something more appropriate for a sewing room. <br />
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Every idea I had involved a dress form so I decided to paint my good old dress form I got at the same thrift store for $5. (It doesn't have a stand but, eh, whatever. It's mostly just to pin and display anyway.) You can see it in the upper right most corner of the picture if you look closely. :-) <br />
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It's not a great painting but I'm pretty happy with it. I used an entire tube of gray paint, most of the way too peachy to be flesh tone, and a lot of the green to get this painted and get the giraffe completely covered. <br />
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Isabellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01420037377392425312noreply@blogger.com0